Argentium Sterling® Casting details

I have had a few requests for more details on the methods I use to cast my jewelry. For me, it's got to be cheap! I have been collecting lapidary and silversmith equipment for several years, most of it used. Some of the equipment I started with, has never been replaced simply because I have become so accustom to it and there seems to be no need for replacement.

Please note that when I cast, I usually cast around two troy ounces of AS at a time.

The torch I use is a BernzOmatic® Jet Torch Kit (JTH7). Using this torch with MAPP gas, produces a flame that, at least for me, is perfect for casting with Argentium Sterling® Silver. I turn it up full blast and the AS melts rapidly, and yet doesn’t overheat too quickly. Although I have other torches now, this is my favorite for casting because it helps me be as consistent as possible.
As I am melting the Argentium Sterling® Silver, I add a pinch of Borax. I try to heat the AS only as long as needed. As soon as it is liquid, I start the centrifuge.

The centrifuge I use is a simple to use Neycraft® Centrifugal Caster. I take the flask directly from the kiln to the centrifuge. The time it takes for me to put the flask in the centrifuge, and heat the metal, seems to allow the flask time to cool to the proper temperature for casting. After the piece is cast, I allow the flask to cool to room temperature before removing the piece. This helps make the Argentium Sterling® Silver stronger and more durable.

Although this process is quite simple, it has bought me very consistent results that I am very pleased with. Hope this helps! Good luck and Happy Casting :).

If you need Designer Cabochons for your work, you can help support further work on this blog by buying them directly from me at Artfire.

Casting with Argentium Sterling®

I've cast several rings using Argentium Sterling®. I haven't had much to say because there has never really been any problems or strange situations. Here are some of the things to remember when casting with Argentium Sterling®.

Temperature: 1750-1800 deg F. is recommended for casting (casting by sight is not recommended). Unfortunately I don't have the equipment the accurately gage the temperature of the AS so I must go by sight. I have tried to go with the lowest temperature that I can. Remember that if the metal looks yellow or light orange, it is too hot. I have been casting in low light conditions and heating it just until I know all the metal is fluid. The metal at that temperature has an interesting orange glow. One thing that has not been a problem for me is pitting (a common problem using regular Sterling silver). It is my guess that the problem has been lessened, at least in part, due to the lower casting temperatures.

Contamination: As recommended when fabricating with AS, do everything you can to prevent contamination from other alloys. Use a separate crucible, and when it comes time to polish, use buffs reserved only for AS, don't switch between AS and regular Sterling. AS seems to easily pick up copper from contaminated surfaces.

Oxygen: As you would with regular Sterling, protect the alloy from oxygen. I will usually use a pinch boric acid as I am heating the AS to protect it.

Hardening: Once the item is cast, I like to allow the flask to cool to room temperature before removing it from the investment. Cooling to room temperature in this manor makes the piece very hard (you should notice the difference when cutting off the button). The piece can be made only slightly harder if hardened using the precipitation method.

More flux information

I received an email from Peter Johns, the inventor of Argentium Sterling(tm) Silver. He told me that they have found that some fluxes leave a stain on the surface of the metal. He has found My-T-Flux(tm) from Rio Grande to be very good on Argentium Sterling(tm). My-T-Flux(tm) after washing in hot water and a quick pickle is stain free. He also informed me that Cynthia Eid uses ready made Prip’s flux very successfully with no stains and is very easily removed.
Looks like there are more experiments to be done!

Argentium® Soldering problems...Results of flux testing

The reason for my soldering problems seems to be the flux I was using. After doing the test, I switched fluxes and have had no problems since.

After doing some research on the web, I was able to find a source for the these F flux. Unfortunately, with shipping, it was way to expensive. I then went to my local rock shop and got five different types of fluxes that they always kept in stock.

I took five pieces of Argentium Sterling® Silver all the same size and placed them on a piece of Argentium Sterling® Silver. A small piece of hard Argentium® Solder was placed by each piece of Argentium Sterling® Silver. I used a different type of flux for each piece of silver. The following is the order, best to worst, of which fluxes did the best (according to my very unscientific test). NOTE: The Ultra Flux® paste is the flux I was using when I had soldering problems.

1. Horizon Tool Co.® Paste Flux ($5.95 for 2 oz.)
2. Cupronil® liquid flux ($4.95 for 4 oz.)
3. Dandix® Paste Flux ($5.50 for 1 oz.)
4. Ultra Flux® Paste ($5.50 for 8 oz.)
5. Batterns® Self-pickling Flux ($7.75 for 16 oz.)

It is surprising what a difference the flux used can make. I know there are lots of other fluxes on the market, some of which, probably work better than the ones I've tried. These are just the ones that are easy for me to get locally. The moral of the story is to keep an open mind when working with Argentium Sterling® Silver. Things that worked alright with regular Sterling Silver, may work differently with AS.

Argentium® Soldering Problems Update

Thanks goes to Judie Raiford and Trevor F. for their comments about not using steel wool when soldering. Trevor also mentioned that he preferred to use Thessco F flux when soldering Argentium Sterling® Silver. I believe Thessco is from Europe. I’m going to try some other fluxes that I can get locally and let you know how it goes.